New active ingredients in modern cosmetics

1. active ingredients of the exellance Line

Coenzyme Q10 (Q-10,Ubiquinone-10)

occurrence

  • rich in organs (e.g. liver)
  • Oily fish (e.g. sardines, mackerel)
  • Nuts (e.g. pistachios)
  • legumes
  • Sesame seeds, sunflower seeds
  • Plant oils
  • Vegetables (e.g. cabbage, onions, potatoes, spinach, Brussels sprouts, broccoli)

Production

Properties

  • Q-10 is a yellow-orange, crystalline powder without smell and taste

Biological Function

  • Q-10 is an endogenous substance
  • Partially dietary intake and body production
  • Q-10 is a coenzyme involved in the conversion of energy from food into the body's own energy (ATP), a kind of catalyst for energy production .
  • Participating in cell division and renewal
  • Q-10 has strong antioxidant properties and can intercept harmful free radicals (radicals are aggressive oxygen molecules that can attack and alter our cells)
  • The largest concentration of Q-10 is found in the organs heart, lungs, and liver

Cosmetics

  • anti-aging active ingredient
  • Free radicals make our skin cells age faster, Q-10 binds free radicals and counteracts skin aging
  • Cares for a fresh, youthful skin appearance
  • Stimulates cell renewal in the skin
  • Plays a central role in cell protection and cell function
  • strengthens the connective tissue
  • Cares for a more elastic skin
  • can reduce wrinkle formation
  • supplies the cells with new energy
  • Acts rejuvenating and leaves the skin naturally radiant


Vin-up Lift

  • Exclusive active ingredient with immediate lifting effect
  • INCI Declaration: Wine (and) Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum

(and) Maltodextrin (and) Aqua / Water

  • Alcohol-free
  • free of preservatives

Production

  • From Swiss ice wine (grape variety Vidal Blanc and Pinot Noir)
  • Ice wine production: from naturally frozen grapes which have been exposed to a temperature of at least - 8 °C. The grapes are harvested by hand at night. Still frozen, the grapes are pressed and the concentrated juice is obtained in the form of ice .
  • pressed ice wine is particularly rich in sugars, polysaccharides and polyphenols
  • Ice wine is only partially fermented and still contains many sugars, polysaccharides and metabolites from yeast with astringent properties .
  • The fermentation process takes considerably longer than normal wine production (approx. 6 months)
  • Further processing: incorporation into a carrier system based on polysaccharides (tara gum) of Caesalpinia spinosa.
  • Caesalpinia spinosa (Leguminosae) is a tree native to the Peruvian Andes that thrives on sandy and rocky soil. Tara gum is obtained from the nutritive tissue of the seeds in the form of a whitish powder. Tara gum is a highly branched polysaccharide with a high molecular weight

Properties

  • 24 hours moisturizing
  • Significant increase in skin moisture
  • immediate reduction of wrinkle depth (e.g. crow's feet)
  • Smoothes and cushions the skin
  • immediate lifting effect
  • Gives a youthful and fresh appearance


snow algae extract

snow algae extract

The active ingredient is based on an extract of an extremophilic algae species that has the ability to survive in regions with permanent snow and on glaciers. These normally green survivors form protective molecules during periods of stress (too little food, too high UV exposure) and turn red. In this phase, the snow algae in the mountains are seen by the naked eye as "red snow".

  • Innovative anti-aging active substance
  • plant species with survival strategies to enable growth and existence on glaciers and continuous snow
  • Came from Collection type Chlamydomonas nivalis.
  • INCI Decaration: Coenochloris Signiensis Extract (and) Maltodextrin (and)

Lecithin (and) Aqua / Water

  • Stimulation to activate the body's own collagen production

occurrence

  • In the high mountains at sun-exposed locations above the tree line e.g. Alps and in polar regions

Production

  • The red snow crop is harvested
  • Red snow algae:

In the cells the secondary carotenoid Asta Xanthin dominates in high concentrations. The red pigmentation with its absorbing and antioxidative properties protects against harmful environmental influences

  • Homogenization of snow algal cells at 1200 bar in the presence of phosphorus lipids to stabilize oil- and water-soluble components in liposomes
  • The suspension obtained is sprayed onto a powder of maltodextrin (a mixture of carbon hydrates obtained from starch) as a base
  • advantages of the snow algae extract obtained in this way:
    • Preservation of the snow algae (sustainable process based on biotechnology)
    • Snow algae extract completely free of environmental pollution and pesticides
    • Constant concentration of the active ingredient through a defined and controlled process

Properties

  • Minimizes the aging process by imitating a calorie restriction
  • Calorie restriction improves health and increases the life phase of individuals and is thus a new anti-aging path
  • Snow algae extract increases the lifespan of skin cells
  • Provides skin with the benefits of a "diet" without the need to reduce food intake
  • effect at cellular level:
    • Activates and protects skin cell longevity factors
    • cell defence is improved
    • Resistance to oxidative stress
    • cell detoxification and repair is improved
  • Collagen production is activated
  • skin rejuvenation and cellular protection
  • skin barrier is improved
  • skin appears fresher and softer
  • age spots are less visible
  • skin is permanently moisturized


hyaluron (hyaluronan, hyaluronic acid)

Description

  • Accession to the group of glycosaminoglycans (GAG) or mucopolysaccharides
  • Linear structure of repeating disaccharides (double sugars = 2 linked sugar molecules) Polysaccharide built up
  • component of many biological macromolecules
  • Framework of many fiber-forming fabrics
  • pure: white solid
  • Dissolved in water: gel-like, clear liquid
  • INCI Declaration: Hyaluronic Acid

occurrence

  • cartilage
  • joint lubrication
  • Navel cord
  • glass body of the eye
  • connective tissue

Production

  • By means of biotechnological processes
    • Process in which proteins are fermented from yeast. Subsequent purification by multiple filtering
    • advantage: Thanks to the biotechnological process, no animal substances can be found in the hyaluron produced, so that no user has to expect allergic reactions.

Properties

  • Has the ability to absorb water
  • The hyaluronic acid molecule can be hydrated up to 10,000 times larger than the volume of the molecule itself.
  • Has a high elasticity
  • Biological lubricant

Beauty surgery

  • Wrinkle injection
  • Modeling the Lips
  • skin refresh
  • Contour of facial contours
  • gained effect is maintained for 6-12 months

Cosmetics

  • High water binding capacity (up to 6 liters per gram net weight)
  • Increases the elasticity of the skin
  • Prevents wrinkling
  • Binding moisture effectively in stratum Corneum
  • Prevents water loss from the skin
  • Hydrate mantle of hyaluronic acid is only released after several hours, works in this way over a long period
  • skin tightening and smoothing effect
  • Specifically recommended: Use of low-molecular and high-molecular hyaluronic acid as a mixture
    • Low molecular: due to its smaller size, it penetrates better into the skin, stores water in the connective tissue, tightens the skin, wrinkles are visibly reduced. Moisture is lastingly stored in the skin.
    • High Molecular: forms a hydrating film on the skin that provides moisture and improves elasticity. It is nourishing and soothing, has anti-inflammatory properties.

application at:

  • Severely dehydrated skin with disturbed barrier layer
  • Hydrates the horny layer of the skin and prepares it for care with replenishing and restructuring active ingredients


UV-Filter

  • Use in exellance Day:
    • INCI Declaration: Diethylamino Hydroxy Benzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (cherisher UVA filter)
    • INCI declaration: Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (chemical broadband UV filter, i.e. UVA and UVB filters)

Description

  • Providing for sun protection by preventing UV radiation from damaging our skin
  • Are photo stable (no decomposition in case of UV radiation)

Properties

  • No side effects on the metabolism of the body
  • Protection against UVA and UVB rays
  • UVB rays from the sun cause sunburn
  • UVA rays contribute unnoticed to skin aging
  • Protection against skin cancer
  • Protection against wrinkling
  • Protection against skin irritations
  • Chemical filters convert UV rays on the skin into heat
    • Have many double bonds in the molecule that absorb the energy of UV rays and convert them into heat

Product category/Protection class

Protection factor/allowed data (EU, EFTA status 2012)

Low

6, 10

medium

15, 20, 25

High

30, 50

Very high

50+

Sunburn

  • The radiation energy causes photochemical processes in the skin cells in which cell toxins are formed. The result is an inflammatory reddening of the skin. Due to an enlargement of the vessels, the blood circulation in the skin also increases and the skin swells. Itching and pain sensation are the consequences.

Effects of too much UV light:

  • skin ageing: wrinkles, wrinkles, flaccid skin, skin thickening, leathery skin
  • Pigment, age spots
  • Lingering vascular dilatation
  • Light skin cancer
  • melanomas

Other skin care ingredients of the exellance Line

Argan oil

Description

  • One of the most valuable vegetable oils
  • unique combination of antioxidants and essential fatty acids
  • Protects due to its high vitamin E contentour organism on cellular level
  • The so-called "Gold from Morocco"
  • Argan tree (Latin Argania spinosa) provides the seeds for the valuable oil
  • Argan trees occur only in southwestern Morocco and on the edges of the Atlas Mountains
  • Root roots up to 30 meters deep, can withstand even extremely dry climatic conditions
  • For the regional Berber families, the argan tree is an extremely important component within their cultural life
  • INCI Declaration: Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Gain

  • The fruits are collected from the soil for oil extraction in the period from July to September
  • They cannot be picked directly from the argan tree, because this plant has extreme thorns
  • The fruit yield is then dried in the sun and carefully stored .
  • the inside hidden seeds of the argan tree contain the extremely valuable oil
  • In the old tradition, the seeds are collected by Berber women and then pressed out for use
  • The manual oil pressing means due to the extremely hard fruit peel much trouble, so that it takes about 20 hours, until one liter of oil is won
  • Machine processing has the advantage that the yield of the kernels is considerably higher, but there are significant losses in the quality of the oil .

Properties

  • Contains almost 80 percent unsaturated fatty acids
  • moisturizes human cells without blocking the body's own moisturizing mechanisms
  • One of themost effective fatty acids of the oil is, for example, the linoleic acid (doubly unsaturated and belongs to the Omega 6 group)
  • linoleic acid: reduces inflammation, gives vitality and elasticity, forms a protective barrier that prevents dehydration and prevents harmful environmental influences. This prevents the skin from drying out and prevents harmful environmental influences
  • Contains phytosterols:
    • Concern for moisture storage within the cells
    • Activate the skin metabolism
  • Contains triterpenoids:
    • Neutralizing and other carcinogenic substances
    • Fight successfully Viruses
    • Repair of injured tissue
    • Disinfectant properties
    • Favourable effect on skin diseases such as psoriasis, chickenpox and acne, dry eczema and rashes
    • Excellent source of vitamin E
    • Fights off harmful free radicals successfully at the cellular level
    • Antioxidants, can neutralize skin damage
    • tension and vitality are maintained
    • Regeneration of sunburned and scarred skin areas is intensively supported
  • Contains carotenoids:
    • giving the skin a significantly fresher and younger appearance
    • Tightening as natural antioxidants the tissue
  • contains saponins
    • Reduce wrinkles
    • alleviate inflammation
    • Antimicrobial protection
    • Increase suppleness of the skin
  • contains polyphenols
    • Plant antioxidants that promote the production of healthy cells
    • Protection against free radicals
    • Inflammation protection
    • Affecting an elastic and supple skin

Cosmetics

  • Uses moisturizing ingredients against dry, stressed and wrinkled skin
  • Positive effects in psoriasis, eczema, and neurodermatitis

Short explanation of further active ingredients of the exellance Line:

Shea Butter

Gain

Properties

  • Very many ingredients that have almost exclusively healing effects
  • High content of triterpenes, oleic acid, triterpene alcohols, vitamin E, beta-carotene, and allantoin

Cosmetics

  • effective care for dry skin
  • Specially recommended for neurodermatitis, eczemas, skin rashes


Vitamin E-Acetate

Description

  • Esterified vitamin E, higher stability against atmospheric oxygen and heat

Properties

  • Can trap free radicals of highly energetic molecules
  • moisturizing capacity
  • improvement of the skin surface relief
  • cell renewing and anti-inflammatory effects
  • Mitigation of sun-related skin damage

Cosmetics

  • Use in skin protection and sun protection preparations


bisabolol

occurrence

  • As α-Bisabolol main active ingredient of chamomile

Properties

  • Regenerated and Calmed
  • anti-inflammatory
  • healing
  • antibacterial

Cosmetics

  • care for dry, easily inflammable and cracked skin
  • Sun protection and after sun preparations, after shave products, baby care products and oral hygiene preparations


Lushwood root extract

Gain

  • extraction from liquorice root at low temperatures

Properties

  • anti-inflammatory
  • Soothing
  • Smoothing
  • Irritation-relieving

Cosmetics

  • Creams and masks against irritated skin
  • Lotions, shampoos, toothpaste, mouthwash


Pomegranate seed oil

Description

  • Golden yellow, sticky vegetable oil with characteristic scent
  • Use as a food supplement and in skin care products

Properties

  • Contains a high proportion of highly unsaturated conjugated fatty acids and antioxidative fat-accompanying substances
  • Particularly rich in the rare punicic acid (conjugated fatty acid)

Cosmetics

  • crease reducing
  • skin tightening
  • skin regenerating


Allantoin

occurrence

Properties

  • Soothing and regenerating effect
  • Strengthening effect on the horny layer
  • Makes the horny layer soft and smooth

Cosmetics

  • Application of sensitive, irritated and dry skin


Panthenol

Description

  • Provitamin B 5, i.e. vitamin B precursor
  • In the body panthenol is converted into D-panthotenoic acid, which is effective as vitamin B5, and made usable.

Properties

  • Wound-healing (promotes cell division)
  • Humidity maintenance
  • anti-inflammatory
  • regenerating

Cosmetics

  • Application on dry, brittle skin, supports the natural elasticity of the skin
  • Baby products due to very good tolerance
  • After-Sun Products
  • Shampoos and hair lotions

2. active ingredient of the Repair Line

Repair Complex CLR PF

Description

  • Repair Complex CLR was the world's first and at that time patent-protected cosmetic active ingredient that demonstrably prevents DNA damage
  • Lysate from Bifidobacteria
  • Contains metabolites, cytoplasm fractions, cell wall components and polysaccharide complexes resulting from the cultivation, inactivation and disintegration of bifidobacteria
  • raw material basis biotechnological
  • INCI Declaration: Bifida Ferment Lysate

Production

  • By fermentation of bifidobacteria of the species "longum"
  • After completion of the growth phase, bifidobacteria are disintegrated by ultrasound and thus the cytoplasm fractions and cell wall components are released
  • No isolation of any fractions, so that all components are present in their natural distribution in repair complex

Properties

  • yellowish-white, turbid liquid, low inherent odor
  • To prevent light-related damage in the epidermal and dermal areas
  • Activation of a cell endogenous enzymatic repair system
  • Natural protection factor against the light-induced accelerated

skin aging

  • Feature of action
    • The consequence of UV effects on the skin may be:
      • damage to cellular DNA
      • Disturbances of cell function
      • Accelerated Skin Aging
      • Aging spot formation due to local changes in pigment formation
      • transition of cells into a precancerous stage with the risk of developing skin carcinomas
  • effect repair complex:
    • Stimulates cell endogenous natural DNA repair
    • At UV-irradiated keratinocytes and on living skin Repair Complex CLR causes an increased repair rate
    • Acts against the formation of irreparable DNA damage
    • Prevents light-induced accelerated skin aging
    • Avoid chronic photo damage